by: Shaan Randow

Because we feel the effects of winter more harshly than summer, we go to extra lengths to protect ourselves with coats and hats and gloves. Most of us make sure that our cars are ready for the onslaught of frigid winter weather too. We make sure we have snow tires, an ice scraper and deicer.

However, in summer months we can shed our heavy and restrictive coats and hats and take life easy. We also tend to be more lax with our car care too. Remember, you car needs protection and routine maintenance year round, no matter what the temperature.

Your engine is effected by extremes of temperature. Don’t think that it isn’t hard on the engine when you sit idling in a traffic jam in 90 degree plus temperature with the air conditioner blasting away inside.

The first reason to keep up a maintenance schedule is to save yourself money in the long run. If you have a newer car in order to keep the warranty in effect you need to have it serviced according to your manufacturers recommended schedule.

If your car is older and out of warranty you need to be more vigilant. It’s up to you to make a service schedule for your car. Make a checklist and keep track of the following items;

Oil. This should be changed every 3,000 miles. If you car is “using” oil as the saying goes, check it every other time you fill up. Carry an extra quart of oil in the trunk. Along with an oil change most “speedy” oil change business check belts, hoses, fluid levels, tires, etc.

Antifreeze. Have your cars heating and cooling system checked on at least yearly. You want to make sure you have adequate temperature protection, summer and winter.

Air cleaner. This should be checked at the same time you have your oil changed. A clogged air cleaner can really slow down your engines performance.

Brakes. If you notice any squealing of your breaks have them checked as soon as possible. It’s much cheaper to replace worn pads than it is to have to replace expensive rotors if they become worn.

Tires. The air pressure is usually checked at the same time you have your oil changed. You should also have the tires rotated on a regular basis, this can really prolong their life.

Battery. Batteries are sealed units now. Have the battery checked at least once a year.

Following these tips all year round will help you keep you car in top running order.

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by: Keith Kingston

If you don’t want to be standing out in the cold arguing with a snowblower that doesn’t want to run, then do the annual maintenance before the snow starts flying. Regular maintenance will give you years of hassle free use, and less attitude from your blower. Don’t forget the safety aspect, because without proper maintenance your snowblower could become a hazard.

Each fall before winter arrives, you should check all bolts, belts, and moving parts, to ensure they are not frayed, loose, or worn. Belts are best checked by removing and checking for cracks. Replace any worn parts, and tighten any loose bolts.

Turn your snowblower on its side and check the scraper bar. This is the bar that rubs against the ground and scrapes the snow off. This item wears, so check to see if it need replacement. If you neglect to replace the bar when it is worn, it will lead to damage on the snowblower’s housing, and that’s will hurt your pocket book. In fact, if your snowblower gets a lot of use through out the season, check it regularly.

Check the rubber paddles and the rubber on the auger. If your finger fits between the rubber and the housing it’s time to replace the rubber. A new rubber will help your snowblower operate at its optimum performance levels.

Check tires for wear and proper inflation. Adjust as needed. If you have tire chains for your snowblower, have them handy or put them on in advance. There’s nothing worse than searching in the freezing cold, while trying to remember where you put the chains.

There are only two types of snow blower engines: The two cylinder engine which uses mixed gas and oil. You’ll just need to replace the spark plug on this style of engine.

If you have a four cylinder engine which uses straight gas, with the oil in the crank case just like your vehicle, you’ll need to change the oil, spark plug, and filter. You should also check the oil each time before you start it. Most four cylinders use 5W30 oil, and hold approx 20 ounces. Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct oil weight, and replacement part numbers.

Lube the drive and chassis. If you have two stage blower, make sure you check the lube in the gear box. Check with your owners manual whether you have a one stage or two stage. It will also tell you the type of lubricant to use.

If there was fuel left from the previous year, you’ll need to siphon it off, and fill the gas tank with fresh gasoline. It doesn’t hurt to add some methanol in with the fuel, once or twice a season, to avoid condensation from building up in the tank, or the carburetor icing up.

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by: Dee Scrip

Ravaging the globe in biblical proportions is the Fuel Flu epidemic. Early signs include depleted budgets, indecision whether to drive or eat for the day, incessant complaining, and fear of the future.

Transport industries such as trucking, shipping, etc., found a temporary solution to the Fuel Flu – pass the rising fuel costs down to us consumers of such necessities as food, clothing and shelter.

Government response is to lift current requirements on fuel, so lower grade fuel can be released. Hmmm….let me think here – lower grade fuel results in further Fuel Flu complications such as dirtier engines which ultimately create an even greater need for more fuel and maintenance in order to function at all. That remedy looks like a “Catch 22” for sure!

Intensifying Fuel Flu complications occurs when consumers opt to forego basic maintenance like having the oil changed regularly, replacing spark plugs, keeping the engine tuned, or properly inflating tires for 50¢ (every penny counts!).

STOP!!! Take a deep breath. Listen!

You are not helpless when it comes to the Fuel Flu epidemic. You don’t have to sell your firstborn in order to purchase a tank of fuel. You can be proactive simply by immunizing your truck, car, etc.

Let’s take a closer look at why we need to immunize against Fuel Flu in the first place.

All fuel, regardless of gas, bio-diesel, or diesel fuel, contains sulfur and water. Sulfur and water when combined form sulfuric acid. Sulfuric acid damages your engine and when not burned off, leaves behind carbon deposits that attach to vital organs inside the engine, e.g., spark plugs, fuel injectors, valves, etc. They can even be forced into your oil.

Carbon deposits in your engine create a sluggish response, increased toxic emissions and less miles per gallon. So, the primary focus to immunize against Fuel Flu should be on how to eliminate and prevent carbon deposits from forming.

Now, don’t go running out and frantically buying “spot” treatments such as fuel injector cleaners, new spark plugs, or fuel conditioners — that may even clog your engine further — in a futile effort to immunize your vehicle. Let’s seek advice of a trusted expert, the Fuel Doctor.

The Fuel Doctor highly recommends a simple solution to immunize against the Fuel Flu. One small pill combines all individual treatments, covers all engine sizes, and can be used with gas, bio-diesel, and diesel fuel.

This small pill, the size of a penny, known as the UBiee PowerPill, will eliminate and prevent carbon deposits from forming in your engine. Just by simply popping a pill in your tank every time you fill up at the pump, you will experience increased fuel savings, decreased toxic emissions, decreased maintenance needs, and faster response, thus complete immunization against the Fuel Flu.

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